Ranthambhore National Park Tiger Reserve
Star, T28, is the largest male Bengal Tiger in Ranthambhore National Park.
The Rajasthan countryside is a mosaic of lush green farms, vibrant wildflowers, ladies dressed in traditional Indian saree’s, men in bright turbans and colorfully decorated camels, tractors and trucks. The Ranthambhore National Park is located in the Sawai Madhopur district of southeastern Rajasthan, about 100 miles south of Jaipur. The drive is mostly clear of the chaotic traffic we left behind. Vijay said “To drive in India, you need 4 things…good eye, good horn, good brake and good luck.”
It was just past noon when we arrived at Khem Villas and still relatively cool under a clear blue sky. We were greeted with a clean damp towel, juice drinks and smiles all around. The luxury eco-lodge was fully booked, but most guests were out on safari. While Stephen registered at the desk, I scanned the guest photo gallery of presidents, royals and celebrities. From the main lodge, complete with internet room, to the fresh white tent where we would spend our first two nights, everything looked brilliant. An inviting blue pool, firepit, well placed hammocks and seating areas dotted the trail to tent 10. Inside the tent was a comfortable king size bed, a writing desk, a long rack for bags and hanging clothes, and a full bath with a double sink vanity and a fantastic rain shower. An oscillating fan stood next to the bed to keep the tent cool in the midday heat and a portable heater to keep it warm in the cool evenings. Universal power outlets were under the desk. No detail had gone unattended. It was perfect, and so was lunch.
Our first safari was scheduled for the next day, so we got comfortable and went for a walk around the grounds. We were told not to wander off the paths and that Machali, the oldest living tigress in India, frequented the property. Not far from our tent I saw my first Jungle Cat. It had a ringed tail, large roundish ears and was somewhat larger than a domestic cat.
By this time I had lost sight of Stephen and settled comfortably into a hammock by a pond, watching a little crocodile and enjoying the song birds. A couple from Australia sat down to bird watch, graciously pointing out the birds by name. This was their second trip to Khem Villas. I could appreciate why they would return to such a bird filled paradise.
We’re not vegetarians, but the food is just that, prepared from organically grown foods and herbs mostly from their own gardens. The milk is local from organically fed cows. Every freshly prepared meal was as delicious as the last.
With no TV or internet in the tent, all that was left to do was drift off, that is, until the drumming and music started! There was a wedding party in the village that lasted through the night and well into the morning hours. It was rather enjoyable listening from across the lake and fields…for the first few hours. I decided 2am might be a good time to visit the internet room so I grabbed my laptop and a torch, getting about half way there in pitch darkness before remembering the resident tigress.
Breakfast is served from 9am to 11am, but there are bags with sandwiches and water waiting at the open air dining area along with fresh fruits, cheese, bread and hot drinks. We gathered up what we needed and waited for our Jeep Safari guide 7am arrival. It was a cold ride in an open vehicle this early in the day, but the light and sights along the way to the park were distracting enough.
We saw plenty of wildlife our first day, but no tigers. Ranjit, our guide, said that it sometimes takes multiple trips to eventually catch sight of one. He added that you can tell by the faces whether or not people have seen tigers. We enjoyed the ride and sights, regardless what our faces said, and held out hope for tigers another day.
After a late breakfast, Tent 10 was finally quiet enough for a morning nap, window shades down, letting just enough light filter through the canvas to appreciate the ambiance of the room. It was still cool when I fell asleep, but when I woke the sun was pounding the heat of the day well into my head. Nothing a little lunch and a cold drink couldn’t fix.
In the gift shop, we found the usual t-shirts, hats, jewelry, trinkets and postcards, but the hand stitched quilts, pillow covers, blankets, wall hangings and clothing are entirely gorgeous and completely unique to this area. The Rural Women Crafts shop marks the entrance of the narrow dirt road leading to Khem Villas, and provides most of the jobs for women in the village.
A large percentage of the proceeds from the gift shop sales of these locally crafted goods is donated back to the women. The quilts are all hand stitched using fabric from saree’s and dresses. No two quilts are the same and I’m told that it takes four women two months to make one quilt. There are loops sewn into the corners for wall hanging. They also have a large variety of cotton blankets, pillows and tablecloths, beautifully embroidered with images of animals, flora and traditional Indian patterns. We found holiday gifts that they kindly shipped for us. The extra travel bag Stephen had gotten before leaving Jaipur, anticipating the last chance to find one and likelihood of need, would be packed to it’s full capacity.
Tent service is greatly appreciated as it’s a bit of a walk back to the main lodge. However, it’s a competition for cookies with whatever critters are nearby!
The last night in tent 10 was as peaceful and tranquil as could be.
Ranjit and his driver came to pick us up at 7am. The Ranthambhor National Park provides the majority of jobs for the local men. Ranjit is a native certified nature guide, and the best we could have hoped for. 
He is knowledgeable, courteous and a pleasure to be around.
There are 10 zones in the tiger reserve with an estimated 55 tigers, each with a number and name, each being commonly seen in particular zones. We had already visited zone 6, leaving 5 and 4 to go. We pass deer, antelope, eagles, and then stop to listen. 
With a glint in his eye and a smile on his face, Ranjit directs the driver to turn around and be quick. We stop again, only this time, we see a tiger lying behind a tree in the foggy distance, a herd of nervous looking deer behind her. A short while later she got up and strolled right over to us, rubbing up against the jeep as she walked by. This was Krishna, tiger T19, and this was her zone. She was mesmerizing.
The guides share information by cell phone when a tiger is spotted, so we had only a short period of time alone with her before the rest of the guides searching this zone arrived with their passengers. Soon we were surrounded by vehicles filled with people just as excited as we were, and then, Krishna marked a tree and walked away as nonchalantly as she had arrived.
We drove off in a different direction than the others, passing a huge lake, turning back into the forest, stopping to listen. Hearing the alarm call of a spotted dear, we turned around and sped up a rocky road to where we could see a tiger far across a field. The driver circled until we were positioned directly in front of this massive cat.
He was Star T28, the largest tiger in the reserve. Even the guide seemed excited by this one. Star strolled up to our vehicle, checking it out, back to front and back again. Eventually Ranjit thought to call the other guides. It wasn’t long till we could see their dust trail. Every guide in the zone was heading our way.
Star lingered a bit longer then made his way down the line of newly arrived vehicles till he could find a crossing, trotted up the hill, and disappeared over the ridge. It was truly amazing being that close to a tiger in the wild, drawn in by those entrancing eyes. It’s difficult to explain how utter fascination overrides learned fear no matter how close they came.
Tiger T24 named Ustad, a 9 year old male, previously ruled this forest as largest tiger in the Ranthambhore. A controversy ensued over his relocation to a zoo after fatally mauling a forest guard in May of 2015. Petitions have since been filed to return Ustad to Ranthambhore.
The rest of the week was more of the same peaceful and tranquil existence at Khem Villas. We moved into a villa with a few more amenities than the tent, and a lake view. The gentleman staying in the next villa down told us to watch for a leopard he had seen early that morning at the end of our walkway. It was a fantastic place to nature watch, enjoy a book, and do a lot of nothing in particular. I’ve never before stayed anywhere so void of media, meats and modern entertainments.
Staying at a place designed for ultimate relaxation was an incredible experience. The remoteness was a bit strange at first. There are no cabs to call or restaurants to visit. Outside the resort, walking to the village and hanging out was what there was to do. 
We’re all generally curious about each other, after all. People were friendly, inviting us to sit and chat wherever we went, and there was always some who spoke enough English to translate the conversation. Interacting with and helping each other seemed the natural course of any given day.
India is…a simultaneous assault on all of the senses in the most raw and magical spirit of endearment.